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LETTERS 



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HISTORICAL, DESCRIPTIVE 



MISCELLANEOUS. 




C H A R L E S T O W N : 

PRESS OF THE BUNKER-HILL AURORA. 

1848. 






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i>a[]©ir@sa©;aiL. 



DESCRIPTIVE AND MISCELLANEOUS. 



i.(J^^ CU. *^-<J^^^^--^^Cn^ 



Press of the Bunker-Hill Aurora. 
1842. 



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NOTE. 

IN publishing these hastily-written Letters in thi« form 
the wnter's only object is to aid in .uaking Nahant. its 
desM-ableness a. a healthful summer-residence, and a, a 
qu.et and delightful watering-place, more generally 
kuown,-especia]ly among travellers and tourists from 
var.ous sections of our country. He claims but little 
cred.t on the score oforigi„ality,-the labor having been 
'n a great degree, that of compilation ; and if their pre- 
sent pubi.cation shall do anything in extending the knowl- 
edge or adding to the interest of Xahant, or afford to 
Hs residents and visiters, entertainment for a leisure 
I'our, all the writer's ends will be accomplished. 



LETTER I. 



The Hotel — Company — first land speculator — peculiar 
interest in tlie history ofNahant — IMilitary luinting 
wolves — progress of civilization and refintnienl. 
Nahant Hotel, of which Mr Phixeas Drew 
has become the proprietor, is the great head- 
quarters offashion, gaiety and enjoyment for the 
elite of Bo;sion, during the warm season. The 
company ofcourse, is very large; yet they are 
provided with everything desirable, and there is 
no reason why ihey should not enjoy themselves. 
Notes pass occasionally, and the sweetest notes 
from the piano and the human voice are often to 
be heard; but notes to pay are seldom thought 
of. When people come here they generally leave 
business affairs behind them, and forget so far as 
iheymay, the trials and perplexities incident to 
business-life. Nahant is the place for relaxation, 
where one wants to pass a f^iw weeks of unvexcd 
leisure; where he may, by the aid of the sea- 
air, the bath and other virtues of the place, 
invigorate his whole system, and at the same 
time, enjoy unalloyed with harrassing cares, the 
delights of social intercourse. 

''The Nahant,'^ as it was originally called, 
belonged to the Indians for many years after the 



ettlement of the English at Lynn, Salem and 
the Vicinity. Its name is said by some to sig- 
^ity an islancL It was purchased of the Indians 
by Farmer Dexter,-who was the first land- 
speculator in this country, so far as I have read 
-in 3630, for a suit of clothes. It was after- 
wards again sold for -two pestle stones." At 
this time, it was thickly wooded, and was chiefly 
"sed by the inhabitants of Lvnn, Salem &c 
for pasturing their cattle, for this, at that time; 
very satisfactory reason, viz. as it is a peninsula 
surrounded by water excepting the narfow beach 
which connects It with the town of Lynn, a fence 

guage of the times, -keepes out the wouives and 
keepes in the cattell." 

es n he history of this little peninsula,, not on- 
ly m the limes of the Indians, but in after times 
since It became the resort of the Ent^lish It 
was for many years a source of litigalion, be- 
tween the town of Lynn and Farmer Dexter 
and others, and in the end, if I recollect rightly, 
it was held by the town. It has been lotted off 
once or twice, and on one occasion, the wolves 
became so numerous there, that the train-band, 
the mihtia of that day, (1634,) were marched to 
Jt m a body, to hunt wolves! Capital military 
exerciseand discipline, and duty J Some of our 
soldiers of the present day, we opine, would en- 
joy a taste of such service. But the wolves < 
have all disappeared from Nahant-the Indians 
too, are all gone^the trees have been cut down - 



s new race of animals, a new growth oi trees, 
a new class of people, have now come on the 
soil, and Nahant is no longer what it was in his- 
torj. From the rudest spot of a rude people, it 
has become the resort of the most fashionable of 
the fashion,— from barbarism it has risen through 
the grade of civilization, to refinement and lux- 
ury, — and is now one of the most delightful re- 
sorts in the world. Its broad and extensive 
beaches, its rugged, lock-bound shores, its natu- 
ral curiosities, as the Pulpit Rock, Spouting- 
Horn, Swallow's Cave, all have their attractions. 
So also, have the fishing, gunning, bathing, rid- 
ing, and other amusements of the place. These 
things are all to be seen or enjoyed, and the 
idea of going to Nahant and returning without 
seeing or enjoying any of them, is perfectly ab- 
surd, or as we sometimes «ay, ^'itis not a pro- 
ceeding." 

To see Nahant, requires time; to enjoy it re- 
quires still more. It is a place above all other 
places to see by day and enjoy by night. Hot as 
it is in the city, here you may ride, bathe, or fish 
during the day, and be sure of a good, cool, 
comfortable night's sleep afterwards. 

The name and fame of Nahant have been re- 
hearsed and sung by proser and poet, and its 
rocks and beaches have been the theme of the 
historian and the subject of the painter, — and 
yet the half has never been said, sung or paint- 
ed. I do not suppose, however, that I shall be 
able to furnish anything very original, in what I 
may have to offer. I shall give such facts as I 



Tnay be able to gather in relation to its history-y 
its early appearances and uses, natural history 
and curiosities, and shall rely on others to fur- 
nish most of the material, raw or manufactUFedj 
just as I can find it to suit my purpose. 



LETTER IL 



Ifalianta — Nahantou — -the Sachem Montouampate--— 
Visit to England — Death — Small pox among the In- 
diana — benevolence of Samuel Maveuck — Winnepur- 
kitt arrives to the succession of bis brother, aged 13 
years — Marries Joane, ©f Nahant — their children — 
Winnepiirkitt goes to Barbadoes-Is the last of the 
Sagamores— Aberginians and their Saehem— "Squaw 
Sachem." 
Nahanta was the wife of an Indian Chief, and 
according ta tradition, the saunks or queen o^* 
Montowampate. Nahanton was a cousin of the 
chief, and was born (on Nahani.?) in 1605. 

Montowampate was the Sachem of the Saii- 
gus Indians and lived on Sagamore Hill, a high 
bluff rock, near the head of Long Beach in Lynn. 
He had the jurisdiction of Lynn and Marble- 
head. It is related of Montowampate that, 
having been defrauded of twenty beaver skins 



by a man in England named Watts he went to 
Governor Winthrop, on the 26th March, 1631, 
to solicit his assisiance in recovering their value. 
The Governor entertained him kindy, and -ave 
him a letter to Emanuel Downing, Esq. of Lon- 
don. Tradition asserts that he went to Eng- 
land, where he was received with much i>->( ect 
and obtained remuneration for his fur; but dis- 
liking the English delicacies, he hastened back 
to Saugus, to the "enjoyment of his clams and 
succatash." This Sachem, who was called also 
James Sagamore, died in D ccember 16SS, of the 
small pox. Gov Winthrop gives the following 
interesting accoun- of his death, and of the rav- 
ages of ihat horrible disease, among the natives: 

"liSS, December 5.] John Sagamore died of 
the small pox, and almost all his people; (above 
thirty buried by Mr Maverick of Winesemett in 
one day.) The towns in the bay took away 
many of the children; but most of them died 
soon after. 

"James Sagamore of Sagus, died also, and 
most of his folks. John Sagamore desired to be 
brought among the English, (so he was;) and 
promised (if he recovered) to live with the Eng- 
lish and serve their God. He left one son, which 
he disposed to Mr Wilson, the pastor of Boston; 
to be brought up by him. He gave to the gov- 
ernour a good quantity of wampompeague, and 
to divers others of the English he gave gifts; 
and took order for the payment of his own debts 
and his men's. He died in a persuasion that he 
should go to the Englishmen's God. Divers of 



them, in their sickness, confessed that the Eng- 
lishmen's God was a good God; and that, if 
ihey recovered, they would serve him. 

*'It wrought much with them, that when their 
own people forsook them, yet the English came 
daily and ministered to them; and yet few, only 
two families, took any infection by it. Among 
others, Mr Maverick of Winesemelt, is worthy 
of a perpetual remembrance. Himself, his wife 
and servants, went daily to ihem, minisiered to 
their necessities, and buried their dead, and took 
home many of their children. So did other of 
their neighbors." 

Montowampate, (or James Sagamore,) was 
succeeded in his government, by his brother 
Winnepurkitt, at the age of 13 years, and this 
chief,--it may be interesting to remark here, — 
married his wife from Nahant. Winnepurkitt, 
otherwise called George Rumney Marsh, was 
born at Medford, probably in the year 1620, and 
resided there with his father until called to the 
vacant Sachemship of his brother, in 1633. 
Concerning his wife and her family, Lewis has 
gathered the following: 

^'Poquannum, or Dark Skin, lived on Nahant 
He had iwo children. 1. Queakussen, born in 
1611, and generally known by the familiar ap- 
pellation of "Captain Tom." He removed to 
Mistick, and afterwards to Patucket. Mr Goo- 
kin, in a deposition, 1686, says he is "an Indian 
of good repute, and professes the Christian re);- 
gion." 2. Ahawayetsquaine, called Joane, who 
married Winnepurkitt." 



Winnepurkitt, (as I much prefer to speak of 
these native children of the forest by their In- 
dian names,) was the proprietor of Deer Island 
in Boston harbor. He had three daughters, viz: 
Petagunsk, called Cicely; Wuttaquattinusk, or 
the Little Walnut, called Sarah; Peiagoona- 
quahj called Susannah. In the latter part of his 
life he went to Barbadoes. It was supposed he 
was carried there with the prisoners who were 
sold for slaves at the end of Phillips war. He 
was also the proprietor of the tract of land on 
which Marblehead was built, which was sold to 
that town, after his death, by his heirs; and he 
seems to have had a claim to Nahant, as he gave 
Mr Nicholas Davison of Charlestown, in April 
1652, a mortgage of "all that tract or neck of 
land, called, Nahant," for "twenty pounds ster- 
ling dew many yeer." 

Winnepurkitt was the last of the Lynn Saga- 
mores! He died in 1684, soon after his return 
from Barbadoes; and his wife, — the first wooed 
and probably the first wedded of the native chil- 
dren of Nahant, — died the following year. 

The Saugus or Lynn Indians belonged to the 
great nation called Aberginians, extending from 
Charles River to the Merrimack, governed by a 
powerful Sachem, called Nanepashemet or the 
New Moon. The Sagamores W^onohaquaham, 
(John Sagamore of Winesemett,); Montovvam- 
pate, (James Sagamore of Lynn,); and Winne- 
purkitt, the last of the SagamoreS; were the sons 
of the "New Moon," who had a daughter also, 
called Abigail, Whether Masconomond, the 



10 

Sagamore of Agawara, (now Ipswich,) was of 
the same family, I have not ascertained. Nane- 
pashemet lived at Medford, and was killed abouj; 
the year 1619. The government was continued 
by his queen, called "Squaw Sachem," to whom 
most of the tribes in Massachusetts were sub- 
ject. In 1635, she had a second liusband, whose 
name was Wappacowet. 

So much have I thought it might be interest- 
ing to say relative to the history of these In- 
dians, who had so much to do with Nahant, at 
this early period of our history. 



LETTER III. 



Ownership of Naliant — "Black Wiiram" tlie origin.il 
proprietor — he sold it to Thomas Dexter for a suit op 
( clothes — Baxter's lawsuit with the plantation for Na- 
h lit — Depositions and histori li information — Na- 
hant used for pasturing Cattle, and again sold for 
"two pestle stones." 
As regards the original ownership of Nahant, it 
appears to be evident, that in 1629, it belonged 
to an Indian Chief, who was called by the Eng- 
lish, Duke William or Black Will. His father 
was a Sachem, lived at Swampscot, and died be- 



r 11 

fore the English arrived. Black William was 
killed by some of the white people, in 163S. 

In 1630, Black William sold Nahant to Thom- 
as Dexter. Dexter lived on the western bank 
of Saugus river, was an active and enterprising 
man. He built a mill and a wear across Saugua 
river; owned eight hundred acres of land, and 
by way of excellence was called Farmer Dexier. 
Among his other speculations, he purchased Na- 
hant of Black William for a suit of clothes. 
This purchase gave rise to an expensive law- 
suit between Farmer Dexter and the town, in 
1657, the following account of which is taken 
from Lewis, who quotes from the files of the 
Quarterly Court: 

''Mr Thomas Dexier, who claimed Nahant as 
a purchase from Black William, commenced an 
action at the Quarterly Court, on the Sd of 
June, against the town, for occupying it. 
The case was defended by Thomas Laighton, 
George Keysar, Robert Coats, and Joseph Ar- 
mitage in behalf of the town. The following 
depositions were given: 

1. "Edward Ireson, aged 57 yeares or there- 
abouts, svvorne, saith, that liveing with Mr 
Thomas Dexter, I carried the fencing stuff, 
which master Dexter sett up to fence in Nahant 
his part with the rest of the Inhabitants, and 
being and living with mr Dexter, I never heard 
him say a word of his buying Nahant, but only 
his interest in Nahant for his fencing with the 
rest of the inhabitants, this was about 25 years 
since, and after this fence was set up at na- 



12 

hant, all the new comers were to give two shil- 
lings sixpence a head or a piece vnto the setters 
up of the fence or inhabitants, and some of Salem 
brought Cattell alsoc to nahant, which were to 
give soe." 

2. "The Testimony of Samuel Whiting senr: 
of ye Towne of Linne, Saith, that Mr Hum- 
phries did desire that mr Eaton and his compa- 
ny might not only buy Nahant, but the whole 
Towne of Lynne, and that mr Cobbet and he 
and others of the towne went to mr Eaton to 
offer both to him, and to commit themselves to 
the providence of God, and at that time farmer 
Dexter lived m the towne of Linne." The Mr 
Eaton here mentioned, was Theophilus Eaton, 
afterwards Governor of Connecticut. 

S. "The Dep. of Daniel Salmon, aged about 
45 yeares, saith that he being master Hum- 
phreye's servant, and about 23 years agon, there 
being wolves in nahant, commanded that the 
whole traine band to goe drive them out, be- 
cause it did belong to the whole towne, and 
farmer Dexter's men being then at training 
went with the rest. 

4. "This I Joseph Aimitage, aged 57 or there 
abouts; doe testifie, that about fifteen or sixteen 
yeares agoe, wee had a generall towne meeting 
in Lin, at that meeting there was much dis- 
course about nahant was theires, myself by pur- 
chase haveing a part therein, after much agita- 
tion in the meeting, and by persuasion of mr 
Cobbltt, they that then did plead a right by 
fencing, did yield up all their right freely to the 



IS 

Inhabitants of ihe Towne, of which Thomas 
Dexter senr was one." 

5. *'We, Geo. Sagomore and the Sa^^omore 
of Agawam, doe testify that Duke William so 
called did sell ail Nahant unto ffarmer Dexter 
for a suite of cloathes, which cloaihes ffarmer 
Dexter had again, and gave vnto Duke William 
so called 2 or 3 coates for it again.' This depo- 
sition was signed with an S. as the mark of Mas- 
conomond and the bow and arrow, as the maik 
of Winnepurkiit. 

*'Other depositions were given by Richard 
Walker, Edward Holyoke, George Farr, Chrir- 
topher Lindsey, William Dixey, William Wit- 
ter, John Ramsdell, John Hedge, William 
Harcher, and John Legg. The Court decided 
in favor of the defendants; and Mr Dexter ap- 
pealed to the Court of Assistants." 

The two following paragraphs, also from 
Lewis, afford some further information concern- 
ing Nahant, and the use which was made of it. 
William Dixey came over as a servant of Mr 
Isaac Johnson, and was admitted a freeman in 
1634. 

On his arrival, application was made by his 
master, for him and others, '' for a place to sitt 
downe in; upon whi^.h," he says, "mr Ende- 
cott did give me and the rest leave to goe where 
weo would; upon which I went loSaugust, now 
Linne, and there we met with Sagamore James 
and som other indians, whoedid give me and the 
rest leaue to dwell there or thereabouts; wherc- 



14 

upon I and the rest of my master's company did 
cut grass for cattell, and kept ihem upon nahant 
forsom space of time; for the Indian James Sag- 
amore and the rest did give me and the rest, in 
behalf of my master Johnson, what land we 
would; whereupon wee sett down in Saugust, 
and had quiet possession of it by the above said 
Indians, and kept our cattell in nahant the sum- 
mer following." 

1630. ''William Witter was a farmer, and re- 
sided at Swampscot. He says, "Blacke will, or 
duke William, so called , came to my house (which 
was two or three miles from Nahant) when 
Thomas Dexter had bought Nahant for a suit 
of clothes, the said Black will Asked me what I 
would give him for the Land my house stood 
vppon, it being his land, and his ffather's wig- 
wame stood their abouts, James Sagomore, being 
a youth was present, all of them acknowledg- 
inge Black will to be the right owner of the 
Land my house stood on, and Sagomore Hill 
and Nahant was all his;" and adds 'Hhat he 
bought Nahant and Sagomer Hill and Swams- 
coate of Black William for two pestle stones." 

It would appear from the first of the above 
quotations that Sagamore James, (Montowam- 
pate,) exercised the authority of his government 
in disposing of Nahant, or at least of the use of 
it, while from the second paragraph, according 
to Witter, he allowed that it belonged to Black 
William. Winnepuikilt, his successor, also at- 
tempted to dispose of it, as appears by the raort- 
aacre alreadv mentioned. But this last sale o^ 



15 



Nahant, including Sagamore Hil!, (where the 
reigning monarchs appear to have rcvsided,) 
and Swampscol, "for two pestle stones,'^ is cheap 
beyond all account. 



LETTER IV. 



Use made of Nahiinl — Swine let loose in the woods- 
Description of Njih:int ill 1633, written bj William 
Wood — Very full and complete — Rem:irks. 
I GAVE you in my last some very interesting par- 
ticulars relative to the History ol Nahant and 
its ownership. The facts stated in the extracts 
then communicated, were mostly new to rae, or 
if I had seen them in print before., it was in 
such connection with other matter as to escape 
my particular attention. It was clear, it seemed 
to me by the depositions from the files of the 
Court, that Duke "William really sold Nahant to 
Farmer Dexter; but it does not appear that he 
ever obtained possession of his purchase. From 
the very first, it was used as a pasture, common 
to the plantation, although infested by woIvei» 
bears and other wild beasts. Even from Salem 
the settlers brought their cattle to Nahant in 
the summer; and in the autumn, the swine wer« 



16 

'*iet loose in the woods that they niiaht falters 
themselves on nuts and acorns." At this time, 
it would hardly be credited that a nut or acorn 
ever grew at Nahant. 

The following full, graphic and particular de- 
scription of Nahant, is taken from "New Eng- 
land's Prospeet," written in 1633, by William 
Wood, which work was undertaken, according 
to his account, "^because there hath been many 
scandalons and false reports passed upon the 
Country, even from the sulphurous breath of 
every base ballad monger." 

''The next plantation rs Saugus, sixe mile^ 
Northeast from Winnesimet. ThisToi\ne is 
pleasant for situation, seated at the bottom of a 
Bay, which is made on the one side with the 
surrounding shore, and on the other side with a 
long sandy Beach. This sandy beach is two 
miles long, at the end whereof is a necke of 
land called Nahant. It is sixe miles in curcum- 
ference, well wooded with Oakes, Pines, and 
Cedars. It is beside well watered, having, be- 
side the fresh Springs, a great Pond in the Mid- 
die, before which is a spacious Marsh. In this 
necke is a store of good ground, fit for the 
Plow; but for the present it is onely used to 
])ut young Cattle in, and weather goates, and 
Swine, to serure them from the Woolues; a few 
posts and rayles, from the low water markes to 
the shore, keepes out the Woolves, and keepes 
in the Cattle. One Black William, an Indian 
Duke, out of his generosity, gave this place m 



17 

generall to this plantation of Saugus, so that no 
other can appropriate it to himselfe. 

*Vpon the South side of the sandy Beach the 
Sea beateth which is a true prognostication to 
presage stormes and foule weather, and the 
breaking up of the Frost. For when a stormc 
hath beene, or is likely to be, it will roare like 
Thunder, being hearde sixe miles; and after 
stormes casts up great stores of great Claromes, 
which the Indians, taking out of their shels, 
carry home in baskets. On the North side of 
this Bay is two great Marshes, which are made 
two by a pleasant River runnes between them. 
Northward up this river g'oes great store of Ale- 
wives, of which they make good Red Herrings; 
insomuch that they have been at charges to 
make them a wayre, and Herring house, to dry 
these Herrings in; the last yeare were dried 8om« 
4 or 5 Last, [about 150 barrels] for an experi- 
ment, which proved very good; this is Hke to 
prove a great enrichment to the land, (being a 
a staple commoditie in other Countries,) lor there 
be such innumerable companies in every river, 
that I have seen ten thousand taken in two 
houres, by two men, without any weire at all, 
saving a few stones to stone their passage up 
the river. There likewise come store of Basse, 
which the Indians and English catch with hooke 
and line, some fifty or three score at a tide. At 
the mouth of this river runnes up a great creek* 
into that great Marsh, which is called Rumny 
Marsh, which is 4 miles broad, haWe of it being 
Marsh ground, and halfe upland grass«, without 
2* 



18 

tree or bush; this Marsh is crossed with divers 
creekes, wherein lye great store of Geese and 
Duckes. There be convenient ponds for the 
planting of Ducke coyes. Here is likewise be- 
longing to this place divers fresh meddoweSy 
which afford good grasse; and four spacious 
ponds, like little lakes, wherein is store of fresh 
fish, within a mile of the towne; out of which 
runnes a curious iresh brooke, that is seldom 
frozen by reason of the warmenesse of the wa- 
ter; ui)on this stream is built a water Milne.and 
up this river come Smelts, and frosi fish, much 
bigger than a Gudgeon. For wood there is no 
want, there being store of good Oakes, Wall- 
nut, Cedar, Aspe, Elme. The ground is very 
good, in many places without trees, and fit for 
the Plough. In this place is more English til- 
lage, than in all New-England, and Virginia be- 
sides; which proved as well as could be expect- 
ed; the corn being very good, especially the 
Barly, Rye, and Gates. 

*'The land affordeth to the iahabitants as 
many varieties as any one else, and the sea 
more; the Basse continuing from the middle of 
April to Michaelas, [29ih Sept.] which stayes 
not half that time in the Bay, [Boston Harbour]; 
besides, here is a great deal of Rock cod and 
Macrill, insomuch that shoales of Basse have 
driven up shoales of Macrill, from one ena of the 
sandie beach to the other; which the inhabitants 
have gathered up in wheelbarrowes. The Bay 
which lyeth before the Towne, at a low 
spring tyde will be all flatts for two miles to- 



19 

gether; upon which is great store of Muscle 
banckes, and clam baneks, and Lobsters among 
the rockes and grassie holes. These flails make 
it unnavigable for shi])pes; yet at high water, 
great Boales, Loiters, and Pinnaces of 20 or 30 
tun, may saile up to the plantation; but they 
neede have a skilfull Pilote, because of many 
dangerous rockes and foaming breakers, that lye 
at the mouth of that Bay. The very aspect 
of the place is foriitication enough to keep of! 
an unknowne enemie; yet it may be fortified at 
little charge, being but few landing places there- 
aboutj and those obscure." 

This description of Nahant is peculiar, and 
like all the productions of that early period, is 
quaint and minute, embracing almost every 
mentionable thing about Nahant. To all who 
are acquainted with the portion of country des- 
cribed, irom Chelsea to Salem, it will appear 
not a little remarkable that so full and complete 
an idea of the country, its character, soil, ap- 
pearances, uses, productions, rivers, creeks, ponds, 
marshes, harbor, fish, the manner of taking them, 
&c. &c. could have been given in so few words. 
Nothing seems to have escaped .the observation 
of Mr Wood, as nothing can exceed the graphic 
and sometimes beautiful language, which he has 
employed. How truly he says, of the rocky 
headland of Nahant, "the very aspect of the 
place is fortification enough to keepe off an un- 
knowne enemie; yet it may be fortified at little 
charge, being but few landing places thereabout, 
and those obscure," 



LETTER V. 



Nahant not fuHy appreciated — Sunlse at Nahart — 
Morning; walk — Taste for Scientiiic purEuits-^Taste 
lor something — Long Beach. 
I HAVE long been of the opinion that this delight- 
ful and saluburious summer retreat, is not pio- 
perly appreciated, highly as it is estimated by 
the thousands who annually visit it. But a tran- 
sient visit, — while the steam boat stops at the 
landing, — cannot afford a correct or adequate 
idea of Nahant, its beauties, wonders or luxu- 
ries. It requires a week, or perhaps a whole sea- 
son, to see Nahant as it should be seen to be 
fully appreciated, — not a week of fine weather, 
for better is it by far that it should be interspers- 
ed -with a storm or two. Nahant needs to be 
Been under all its aspects, — under the darkening 
cloud, amidst the roaring ocean, whitened by 
the foaming billows, and illuminated by ihe flash- 
ing lightning; as well in the broad sunshine 
of noon, when the blue and beautiiul ocean is 
spread out to the eye, until sky and sea forms a 
common line, as in the evening; when the breath- 
hing south wind comes softly over the water 
and cools the fever ish temple with its balmy air. 
Much has been said of ihe indescribable mag^ 



21 

nifcence of a Sttn-Rising at sea, and it certainly 
IS a display of splendor and of gorgeous light 
only to be equalled by a sun rising at Nahant, 
which is very much the same thing. The sun is 
beheld emerging from the hmiiless surface of the 
ocean, reeking as it were, in all his glory, while 
the sky presents a far spreading canopy of gold. 
The scattered sails on the ever-heaving bosom 
of the sea, are gilded with the glorious light, 
and the market-fishermen, us the day advances, 
are seen in the dorys, like flies on the wave. 
But it is not the sun only, in all the glory of his 
rising, which is pleasant and grateful to the 
early riser at Nahant: in the midst of the ocean, 
the air is pure and invigorating, and all around 
is the silent grandeur and vast magnificence of 
nature's works. The swelling sea, wiih scarce- 
ly a breeze-ripple on its bosom, dashes against 
the rugged shore and rolls its white foam over 
the clitTs and in the deep crannies of the rocks. 

A morning walk at Nahant, is one of the most 
exhilerating and healthful pleasures of the place, 
■whether it be in the gravelled walks, on the 
"sandie beach," or bounding over the craggy 
rocks.—there is everywhere enough to engage 
the attention, whether it be directed to botany, 
conchology, mineralogy, fishology, or mere 
curious observation. No one need to have his 
lime hang heavily about him, whether he has a 
taste for scientific pursuits ( r for the enjoyment 
of natural scenery, — for the most sluggisli can 
enjoy his bed in the warmest nights or hottest 
mornings, and such at least are sure to have 



a taste for a good breakfast, in the expectancy 
of which, at Drew's, he will not be disappointed. 
Nevertheless, it is absolutely necessary that 
the visiter at Nahant should have a taste for 
something, — it hardly matters what it is for, but 
taste of some sort he must have. II it be a laste 
for reading, cool and airy retreats are easily 
found; if for pleasant scenes and natural gran- 
deur, these are open before liim; if for science, 
in things of the air, earth or sea, he may enjoy 
and cultivate it; if for pedestrian or equestrian 
exploits, he may enjoy it; if for fashion and fop- 
pery, he can show himself as he ])leases and find 
plenty of observers; or if for bathing, or shoot- 
ing, he may swim, fish or shoot to his heart's 
content. In addition to all this there are other 
amusements, common to similar resorts, in which 
ladies, gentlemen and children can indulge in va- 
rious parts of the day. 

The mid-day at Nahant, including the hours 
immediately preceding and succeeding the hour 
of dining, is generally embraced for a ride to the 
Long Beach, — one ot the most delightful drives 
in the world. Ladies and gentlemen set off from 
the Hotel in carriages, barouches, chaises, on 
horseback, in parties, to enjoy a ride over thi« 
remarkable beach. 

It has always seemed to me that neither pen 
nor pencil, nor both combined under the most 
favorable circumstances, could give any truly adr 
equate idea of Nahant Beach, and the cease- 
less ocean-wave which rolls over its smoothened 
Burlace. It is an exhibition of natural beaulv 



83 

and grandeur, neither to be described nor paint- 
ed. It is beyond the poei's as the painter's art 
— it is too sublime, too vast, too overwhelming 
for the power of language. Words, — mere 
words, — are not large enough ! The sublime im- 
mensity of a single wave — as it comes rolling on 
in its changing colors and overhanging fullness, 
and its crest of glittering diamonds, which 
spreads in bursting bubbles at your feet, — not 
only exhausts but exceeds all language. The 
broad and far extending Beach, with its almost 
reckless and unruffled surface; — a deadened mir- 
ror of evenness and beauty, — a ball room, as it 
were, vast enough for all the sea-nymphs of the 
great Atlantic lo celebrate their gala days, — is 
not to be put in mere words, cannot be describ- 
ed except in living characters equivalent to its 
own immensity. It is a whole language, — even 
more, an eternity in itself, — and can no more be 
written than the blue arch of heaven. Nor can 
it be described in parts — there is no power, no 
method, by which to convey to anoilier, as a 
whole or in portions, an adequate idea of its 
sublime grandeur. It fills the mind too full for 
the power of language; thought itself is check- 
ed: expression fails wholly, and we are either 
absorbed in admiration and wonder, or aim to 
unchain the mind from its enchantment by the 
force of some careless remark. It is like the 
Ocean — who can describe or paint the Ocean') 
If it were still and motionless, who can des- 
cribe its magnificent vastness or paint its glori- 
ous depths? Its eternal upheaving-bosom, its 



24 ^ 

limitless immensity, its crested waves kissing the 
air in bursting chryslals, — who can convey these, 
to the unpresent mind in language? Who can 
p'cture, in words or colors, as it is, a single wave 
in its moving life? Why then talk of putting 
into words — characters more diminutive than its 
gentlest ripple— the Ocean itself, in contact with 
its almost equal wonder, the far-spread Beach 
of Nahant? 



LETTER VI. 



Ndhfiiit beginning to be appreciated — Erection of the 
hotel in 1820 — Its architecture &c. — Addition to the 
hotel building— Its architectural deformity balanced 
by its conveniency — Employment of time — Breakfast, 
Dinner, Tea — Evening amusements — Fashion the life 
of Love — Evening walk — Cool sleep. 

Although Nahant has been a public resort for 
many years past, it is, we may almost say, be- 
ginning to be appreciated. It has gradually 
grown into favor and is more appreciated as it is 
more visited. — It wears well and improves upon 
acquaintance. It is now over twenty years since 
the erection of the Hotel, which took place in 
1820, and from that time Nahant has grown to 



25 

he one of the most celebrated "watering places" 
m the country. This Hotel is on the most south- 
erly or southeasterly point of Nahant, — the ocean 
head-land, — and is built of native stone, taken 
from the immediate vicinity of its location. The 
interior arrangements and the architecture of 
the building is light, airy and elegant, as such a 
building should be in such a place. It contains 
nearly one hundred roorasj but these and the 
general accommodations of the house having 
become wholly inadequate to the accommo- 
dation of the company, some dozen years ago a 
a large additional building was erected, connect- 
ed on the southerly side of the former edifice, 
which affords above a hundred rooms and a very 
large and commodious dining-hall. The out- 
buildings, the billiard hall, bathing-house, and 
even the bowling allies, and we had almost said 
the ice-house and hen-coops, are all in good tastCj 
especially the first named, which is really a neat 
but a small sample of the *' Grecian temple" 
style. These, (although we did not mean to say 
anything about it.) are all put to the blush by the 
^'convenient addition!" However, as we en- 
joy the occupancy of very airy and pleasant 
rooms, enclosed by its outward ugliness, com- 
manding most extensive views of the city and 
neighboring towns, and especially of the far- 
extending ocean, it may be as well to admit, (as 
we now do) that its interior advantages make 
amends for its exterior deformity. The hand- 
some, cool and commodious dining hall, also,— 
we confess' we have much respect for that, in con- 
3 ' ■ 



sideration of its own excellent qualities and the 
service to which it is appropriated. 

In our last, we gave a sketch of what might he 
done or seen at Nahant, to employ the time, and 
especially at morning and noon. A word of the 
evening hour may not be amiss here, particular- 
ly as we have been talking of the hotel. Break- 
fast is by many considered a dull meeting, — Din- 
ner is ofienmade as it werej a matter of busi- 
ness, generally to be despatched, as some of the 
Failroad folks say, but Tea is a merry meeting. 
We confess we have often found it so; but aj- 
ter tea is the social hour at Nahant. At this 
time, the ladies and gentlemen, with their little 
resj on nihilities, generally repair to the long 
drawing-room. Some of the nimble fingers are 
always ready for the piano forte, and some of 
the nimble feet are ever ready for the dance, 
and thus the evening's social pleasures are com- 
menced. The "young people" play, dance and 
aing, while those who choose, enjoy the familiar 
conversation, enlivened by delicate and spark- 
ling wit. The senior part of the company con- 
gregate in groups, while many a soft word pass- 
es between those of fewer years, and who are 
more sensible to the mild influences of love. — 
There is fashion in everything, and not less in 
young love than in other things. Fashion is, in 
Rome sense, the life ol' love. People love, some- 
times, because it is the fashion, and fashionable 
people must not be unfashionable. But we 
prove our position syllogistically thus: fashion 
i'6 true taste, (or ought to be,) true tasle is love- 



27 

ly; whatever is lovely is the life of love; — why 
then should not Nahant be the peculiar abode of 
the fickle goddess? Lovely in itself; fashiona- 
ble for itself, — it is, for a season, the favorite re- 
sort of young hearts, worshipping at the shrine 
of the blind goddess. 

There is nothing of dulness in an evening at 
Nahant. A walk, in the mild light of the moon, 
to the Spouting Horn, Swallow's Cave, or to 
any of the rocky prominences, is delightful, — 
the calm and unbroken quietude that reigns ever 
the scene, is soothing to the mind, while the 
cool, pure air, invigorates the body. The glit- 
tering diamonds of the skies, shine out with a 
clearer brilliancy in the transparent air of Na- 
hant, ond the oce.-m v.'-ave curls its white foam, 
to catch, as it wtr.', pearly gems from their soft 
light. The white sail is seen on the heaviny: 
wave, or it may be, lifted into the horizon, where 
the sky and sea unite in one line of space. The 
distant light houses cast their light across the 
broad expanse of waters for the mariners' aid 
and direction. These and other scenes serve to 
engage the attention and gratify the taste, before 
the hour of retiring, which invariably comes 
along sooner than is expected. A night's sleep 
at Nahant, in hot weather, is a luxury no where 
else to be enjoyed — if ice is a luxury at Canton, 
so is a bed at Drew's, of a hot August night? — 
To be appreciated it must be enjoyed — no one 
can describe its invigoratino' influence. 



LETTER VIL 



Cultivfition of trees — Nahant robbed of its wood for 
fuel — Robert Page preseirted for 'seiinge faille' with 
wood on Sunday — Order of the town for clearing the 
land — Considerat ions concerning Nahant; itSjpasJ 
and present uses, its growth as a place of resort. 
You cowld not but have remarked the factstated^ 
that in 1630, Nahant was we!! covered with for- 
est trees, of various kinds, which since that time 
have all been destroyed. There are nov/ but 
few trees of any age on the Peninsula, and those 
are principally willows, EfToris have been re- 
peatedly made in years past, to rear trees of ev- 
ery description on Nahant, which so far, except- 
ing in relation to the Balm oi Gilead, have prov- 
ed unsuccessful. Of this last description, Mr 
Tudor has raised a great number, and they have 
been set out along the road and over the penin- 
sula very generally. They have thrived pretty 
well so far, and seem to stand the winter and 
winds very successfully. 

Nahant was robbed of its wood, probably as 
the islands in Boston Harbor were, — for fire- 
wood. For instance, the inhabitants of Boston 
supplied themselves with wood from Noddle's 



ft9 

Island, now East Boston, and probably from the 
other islands. We find, in reference to Nahant, 
that on the 13th of June, 1668,— "Robert Page 
of Boston, was presented for setinge saille from 
Nahant; in his b^ate, being Loadenwilh woody 
thereby Profaining the Lord's Daye." It was 
no offence to take wood from Nahant — the of- 
fence appears to have consisted in taking it on 
Sundatj. On the contrary, the town of Lynn, 
in 1656, passed an order for clearing of the land, 
laying a penalty of 50 shillings on those who ne- 
glected to clear their lots in six years. The fol- 
lowing is the order from the town records of 
Lynn : 

"At a towne meeting held February 24, IG56, 
It was voted that Nahant should be laid out in 
planting lotls, and every householder should 
have equal in the dividing of it, noe man more 
than another, and every person to clear of his 
wood in 6 years, and he or they that do not clear 
their lotts of the wood, shall pay 50 shillings for 
the towne's use. Alsoe, every householder is to 
have his and their lotts for 7 years, and it is to 
be laid downe for a pasture for the towne, and 
in the seventh year, every one that hath improv • 
ed his lott by planting shall ihen, that is in the 
seventh year, sowe their lott with English corne, 
and in every acre of land as they improve, they 
shall with their English come, sow one bushel 
of hay seed, and soe proportionable to all -the 
land that is improved, a bushell of hay seed to 
one acre of land, and it is to be remembered that 
no person is to raise any kind of building at ail, 



so 

and for laying out this land there is choseTi 
Francis Ingals, Henry Collins, James Axee, 
Adam Hawckes, Lieut, Thomas Marshall, John 
Hathorne, Andrew Mansfield." 

We have seen that Nahant was originally the 
resort of wolves and other wild beasts; next the 
resort of the savage, who came here Jbr food and 
amusement on the beaches; next it was formed 
into a pasture for the "cattle and swine" of the 
first settlers; afterwards it was improved for the 
catching- and curing of fish and its lands appro- 
priated ivith conditions relating to that use; it 
was used as a wood lot, to furnish fuel not only 
to "Saugust," (Lynn, and all the vicinity,) but 
to Boston; it was sold for a suit of clothes, re- 
claimed and sold again for two old coats; was 
mortgaged for £10 to Mr Davison; was again 
sold for two ''pestle stones;" was afterwards 
lotted out to be cultivated, on certain conditions 
which we have mentioned; became the subject 
of long and tedious litigation among the early 
settlers; — and two hundred years afterwards 
it became the frequent lesort of pleasure parties 
from Boston and all the country round, afford- 
ing no accommodations but its native roughness, 
and the roughness of its natives. The former 
is well known, and the latter is well remember- 
ed. There were but three or four families of 
white people on Nahant at this time. It had 
then been robbed of its trees, and shorn of much 
of its beauty. These families were very shy of 
visiters — they disliked the intrusion — would run 



SI 

affrighted when ihey saw ihem coming— and it 
was with great difficulty that any thing in the 
nature of cooking utensil or food, could be ob- 
tained from them. They would shut their doors 
in the faces of strangers and escape to their back 
rooms or chambers of safety. Subsequently to 
this time (say about 1815 and up to 1820.) par- 
ties frequently went to Nahant in carriages. — 
A gentleman lately informed me that they used 
to start from Boston by daylight in the morning, 
taking with them every thing which they would 
need except ^sA. Mr Wood, who kept a house 
there, would cook for them, and perhaps furnish 
a few vegetables. 

Visiters became so frequent, and applications 
for various little accommodations so common, 
that the necessary intercourse increased, and fi- 
nally these very people began to make it an ob- 
ject to accommodate parties of ])leasure, so far 
as they were able, and to charge them, as we 
have been told, most unconscionable prices for 
the smallest favors. This also naturally led to 
the opening of several houses for public enter- 
tainment, which are now standing in the village, 
some half mile from Jhe Hotel. From the time 
of which we have been speaking to the present, 
Nahant has been the resort of companies of 
friends, families and parties, for the enjoyment 
of its salubrious air, sea-bathing and its excel- 
lent fish. In uncivilized and barbarous times, it 
Avas the resort of wild beasts, the roaming field 
and the pleasure ground of the savage; in after 
ages and in more enlightened times, it is now 



S2 

the resort of the gay, the beaulifulj the rich, 
the refined. The fair-haired and bright-eyed 
beauty of our own country, the stars and 
gems of female Hterature and lovehness from 
other climes, men of genius, learning, and fame 
— all now resort for recreation and enjoyment to 
the early pleasure ground and hunting field of 
the untuiored savage! 



LETTER VI!!. 



Disappointment on visiting Nahant — Looking out for 

the Sea-Serpent Correct idea of Nahant "a 

watering place," toward the Ocean — Few treea 
and siirubbery, but not without cultivation — No foxes, 
wolves or bears now; but rocks, beaches, fish, scene' 
ry, air, minerals, specimens of natural history, ^c. 

When persons visit Nahant for the first time 
and for a short time, it is seldom the case that 
they are not disappointed. They have very like- 
ly heard of Nahant — perhaps have heard much 
about it, and in many cases expect to see the 
sea serpent, or some other wonder, of course. — 
We remember, on our first visit to Nahant, we 
looked for his snakeshipall the way on the pas- 
sage, and went incontinently to the piazza of the 



ss 

hotel, with glass in hand, about as much prepar- 
ed to see him as. though we had come to witness 
an established exhibition. Of course^ we did 
not see him— his majesty did not choose to be 
stared at as a show! He only shows himself, 
when it suits himself to be seen, Enpassant. 
of the Sea Serpent: without much doubting the 
existence of such a creature as the Sea Serpent, 
ourselves, we have reason to believe that some- 
thing else is seen very often and reported to be 
the real serpent. The creature called a Sea Ser- 
pent may be frequently seen; but then other 
things or creatures, are also seen and also called 
the Sea Serpent; and this mistake often makes 
trouble and tends to bring discredit upon those 
who really have seen /Ae Sea Serpent. Of late 
years at Nahant, everything uncommon, and 
sometimes even a ledge of rocks, which surely 
is not very uncommon here, is "cracked up to 
be" the Sea Serpent; and thus the credulous are 
imposed upon — the veracity of many intelligent 
and truth-speaking witnesses discredited, and an 
air of falsehood thrown over the whole story. 

But people are liable to be disappointed in re- 
spect to Nahant, more in other matters even, 
than in relation to the existence and appearance 
of the Sea Serpent. Each person has most like- 
ly formed in his mind's eye, some idea of the 
place; and the chance is, that in most cases it 
will be erroneous. The first correct idea— that 
Nahant is a "watering place,^^ does not suffi- 
ciently impress them. It is out in the ocean; yet 
hundreds look for such things, and such scenery 



84 

and such recreations, as they would be likely to 
find 20 or 50 miles in the interior. They ex- 
pect, at least, to find trees and shrubbery, and it 
raay b.' woods an i groves, but even in this they 
are to be disappoiated. Trees, woods and shrub- 
bery, were once here, but so far from cultivating 
or endeavoring to preserve them were the early 
settlers, that they proposed a fine if they were 
not all cut down in six years! — The place was 
at that time, — nearly two centuries ago, — 
thickly wooded, and the resort of wolves and 
foxes. But now, alas, there is not a single tree, 
unless some tv/o or three ancient cedars have es- 
caped the axe, of the original growth on the pe- 
ninsula; and as to wolves and foxes, excepting 
in the deep fishures of the rocks, there is no place 
to hide their heads! 

Still Nahant is not entirely without culti- 
vation, and is yearly improving in this re- 
spect. There are now some very hand- 
some gardens belonging to the inhabitants and 
to the summer cottages; and our friend Drew 
has some fifteen or twenty acres under a high 
state of cultivation, and has recently extended and 
improved his large garden. The "store of good 
land fit lor the plow," mentioned in history, is in a 
fair way to be cultivated and improved under 
his administration and by force and success of 
his example. There are several fine fields of 
grain, and of the eugar-beet now in a very pros- 
perous condition, looking and promising as well 
as any in the interior, besides abundance of gar- 
den vegetables and good mowing land; and these 



are much less liabb to injury from early frost 
than in the country. The growing of trees, 
however, as we have already mentioned, is some- 
what less successful, it being almost impossible 
to preserve them through the winter storms. — 
They are probably killed by the salt-water spray 
blown over them, during the continuance of se- 
vere storms. In these storms the waves dash 
quite over the highest rocks around the shore. 
We have been informed that they are frequent- 
ly seen to "o'ertop" the "Pulpit Rock;" and the 
spray is then blown by the wind over the land, 
even to overflow the piazza of the hotel, — this 
it is, we suppose, which kills the young trees. 
There are, nevertheless, a ^ew scattering trees 
that survive, in certain locations,— the liiile Elm, 
in front of the bath-house, and protected by it 
from the spray, lives on from year to year, and 
a few others in sheltered situations, seem as yet 
to survive the wintry blasts. It is very proba- 
ble that trees of various kinds, will flourish here, 
as buildings multiply to break off the wind and 
afford them shelter, but those produced from the 
seed and not transplanted from a different soil, 
will undoubtedly thrive best. 

We cannot flatter ourselves yet, however, that 
those who feel disappointed at not finding Na- 
hnni a country place, are very soon to be gra- 
tified in their expectations. Its 'store of good 
ground" may be cultivati.-d, but woods, groves, 
and orchards, it may not yet have. In truth, 
desirable as these may be, Naliant does not need 
ihem— they may better be sought for elsewhere. 



86 

Nahant has its rocks, beaches, caves, fish, sea. 
air, ocean-scenery, its bath-houses and its hotel, 
— and these are enough! These make it what it 
is,— a healthful and delightful resort, and those 
who seek for such a place, where are constantly 
seen the sublimest exhibitions of nature, in the 
ocean-wave, the rock-bound island, and in the 
glorious heavens, — need feel no disappointment 
on visiting Nahant. Characterised as Nahant 
is, by the majestic and sublime, it is still not de- 
ficient in some of the pleasing lesser works of 
nature: the wild flower in its fields, the miner- 
als in its bosom, the shells on its shore, the birds 
on its marshes, and the fish in its waters, — af- 
ford infinite sources of study and gratification to 
the casual observer as to the lover of natural 
history. 



LETTER IX. 



Nahant the resort of savage and civilized lite — Some 
further description of its topography— Preservation 
of Long Beach by a causeway. 
Once Nahant was the resort of the savage, and 
our readers have seen what kind of a resort it 
was to them. It is now the resort of the most 
refined of civilized life, and v/e have seen what 
kind of a resort it is for them. The Indian en- 
joyed it in all its natural beauty and freshness; 



S7 

Tve enjoy it, shorn of much of its original beauty 
but unimpaired in its solid and sublime gran- 
deur. 

Those of our readers who have fnllowed these 
pages thus far, if they have never visited Na- 
hant, must have formed some idea of it; but 
it nevertheless, may be proper that we should 
attempt some lurther description. Nahant may 
be called an arm of land extending into the sea, 
or a "necke of land," as Mr Wood called it. It 
extends over three miles from the shore of Lynn : 
passing over ihe Beach from Lynn, nearly a 
mile and three quarters, we come to Little Na- 
hant, (an island, except the beach connections,) 
containing nearly 50 acres, and consisting of two 
principal elevations or hills; tlien passing over 
the lesser Beach, one half mile in length, we 
come to the larger nebulae, or island, called 
Great Nahant. On this is the village, the cot- 
tages, the church, the hotels, landing, &c. A 
very considerable part of the lesser Nahant is 
under good cultivation, being covered with 
fields of "waving rorn" and other productions 
of the farmer. 

Besides the two principal beaches, there are 
eight or nine shorter beaches around the two 
Nahants, and excepting these, the shore is en- 
tirely rock-bound, so that the "very aspect of 
the place is fortification enough to keepe off an 
unknown enemie." To pass around the entire 
shore of the Nahants, the distance would pro- 
bably be from eight to ten miles. 

Nahant does not extend in a straight line from 



S8 



the shore of Lynn into the Ocean. The long 
heach runs in a curved hne, and the short beach 
with Great Nahant, somewhat resembles a boot 
in shape, having, to be sure, a rather large foot. 
The long beach is a great protection to the har- 
bor of Lynn, and its preservation has been 
deemed so essential that in 1824, a cause- 
way of planks, filled in with sand, was construct- 
ed, at the joint expense of the State and the 
town of L3^nn, each appropriating the sum of 
$1500. The subject of preserving this beach 
and harbor was introduced at the session of Con- 
gress in 1838, and an appropriation of $S9,000 
determined upon, but lost among the mass of 
other unfinished business. 

The beach has no doubt undergone very con- 
siderable changes, and is in fact perpetually 
changing- Wiihin the last half century, its 
breadth is supposed to have been reduced one 
half, and it has become more curved than for- 
merly. It is a question whether there was not 
some extent of soil on this beach, in early time, 
as stumps of large trees are now to be seen in 
some places. On some of the smaller beaches 
also, stumps of large trees are found. The soil 
of the long beach has undoubtedly aided in the 
formation of the extensive marshes of Lynn, 
which have been formed by the wash of the sea. 
The original surface of these marshes is five 
feet below the present surface. 



CURIOSITIES OF NAHANT. 




Egg Rock is said to be two miles N.E. of Na- 
hant in the midst of a broad expanse of water. 
It appears frona the hotel to be a naked rock, 
but contains two or three acres of land. It is 
seldom visited except by sea birds, on account of 
the danger of landing. We saw some time 
since, a bolt of lightning strike on the summit of 
this rock, with a tremendous crash. It appear- 
ed to be, as it descended from the dense, black 
cloud, nearly as large round as a man's body, 
and the concussion almost stunned persons who 
were witnessing the storm from the piazzas of 
the hotel. In years past, many eggs of sea- 
birds have been obtained on this rock. Its sum- 
mit is higher than the observatorv on the hotel. 



40 

The Swallow's Cave is a passage under a 
high cliff on the west side of Nahant, a few 
rods south of the steamboat wharf. It is easily 
accessible, is from 6 to 20 feet high, and Ironi 
5 to 14 feet in breadthj extending about 70 
feet, opening to the water. It can be entered at 




about half tide. The swallows have built their 
nests in the upper part of this cavern, on ledges 
or notches in the rocks. The passage through 
it is rather uneven, but may nevertheless be ac- 
complished by ladies with ease and safety. Pass- 
ing through this cave, you may ascend by climb- 
ing over the rocks, to the height above, without 
returning the way you descend to the opening. 

The Spouting Horn is a peculiar fissure in 
the rocks, on the eastern shore of Nahant, near 
Lindsey's Hill. The water is driven in by the 
waves through a deep channel, a hundred feet 



41 

before it enters the Spouting Horn, and is then, 
(at about half tide,) forced into a cavernous tun- 
nel about SO feet, from thence the water is lit- 
erally "spouted," and thus returns in froth and 
spray to meet the next wave. In a storm, it is 
a grand sight, and is at all times worth a visit. 
A path leads to it, and it is about half a mile 
from the hotel. The cliff of rocks in which it is 
formed, is about 50 feet above the sea, but the 
spectator may descend to the entrance of the 

tunnel. 

PULPIT ROCK. 




The Pulpit Rock is a great curiosity. It 
stands off the south end of Nahant, not far from 
the Swallow's Cave. It is an immense square 
block ofrock, about 30 feet high, having a square 



4S 

open space at top, resembling In shape, an easy 
chair, which is called the pulpit. It is difficult 
to reach the top by cliaibing, the sides are so 
perpendicular. In storms the waves dash over 
this rock with great foree, the wind driving the 
spray like rain all around, for some distance. Its 
location is on the extreme southerly end of Na- 
hant, only a minute's walk from the hotel. It in 
well worth a visit. 

"The Sisters," which are two tall slender 
rocks, toward the S. W. point of Nahant, a 
short distance from Pulpit rock, resemble each 
other so exactly as to have obtained the name 
of the sisters. 

The Smoker's Cave is a recent discovery, 
and is on the headland, directly below the Bill- 
iard Room. It is a nice cool cover, under the 
immense shelving rocks, where several persons 
may sit and smoke their choice cigar. It is fur- 
nished wiih a spring of fresh water. 

The "Roaring Cavern" is near the Smok- 
er's Cave, on the left of it, among the same 
cluster of rocks. It is a thin shelving cavern, 
which extends under a point of rocks, and the 
sea breaking in on the opposite side, gives forth 
a roaring sound, resembling at limes, the rum- 
bling of distant thunder. 

The Natural Bridge is near the Pulpit 
R<ick, and is a wedge of rocks, as it were, sus- 
pended like an arch, over a deep and broad fis- 
sure. It is not easy to cross the Bridge, as it is 
below the surrounding ground. 



45 

There are various other formationSj possess- 
ing^ much interest, about the rocky shore and the 
high cliffs of Nahant, which the curious observer 
will readily discover. On the Little Nahant 
(nearest Lynn,) is the Grotto, Wolf's Cavern, 
Fox Cavern, &o. On the Great Nahant, there 
are also, the Dashing Rock, Iron Mine, &c. 

The Indians used the Long Beach as their 
play ground, for running, leaping, shooting, 
dancing, foot-ball, &c. 

The harbors and coves about Nahant were 
famous for Ducks, so that persons have killed 
"50 Duckes at a shot." Sportsmen frequent 
Nahant now for the same game, in the winter 
season, but seldom do so well as the above. 



HISTORICAL MEiMORANDii- 

In I6S3, Thomas Dexter, (the purchaser of 
Nahant,) was ordered to be "set in the bilbo wes, 
disfranchised and fined X£. for speaking re- 
proachful and seditious U'or</s against the gov- 
ernnaent here established." 

The same year, the poor Indian, Black Wil ' 
Ham, (who sold Nahant to farmer Dexter,) was 
hung at Richman's Island, Scarborough, Me., 
"in revenge for the murder of Walter Bagnall, 
who was killed by the Indians on the 3d of Oc- 
tober, 1631." It does not appear that Black 
William had any pan in the murder, and if he 



44 

had, Gov. Winthrop says that Bagnall was ''a 
wicked fellow and had much wronged the In- 
dians." 

In 16S4j on training-day, by direction of Mr 
Humphrey, Capt. Turner went with his compa- 
ny to Nahant, to hunt the wolves by which it 
was infested. 

In 1635, Jan. 11, it was ''voted by the free- 
man of the towne, that these men underwritten 
shall have liberty to plant and build at Nahant, 
and shall possess each man land for the said pur- 
pose, and proceeding in the trade of fishing. — 
Mr Humfreys, Daniel How, Mr Ballard, Joseph 
Belknap, Francis Dent, Timothy Tomlins, 
Richard Walker, Thomas Talmage, Henry 
Fenkes." 

Jan. 18, "It is ordered by the freemen of the 
lowne, that all such persons as are assigned any 
land at Nahant, to further the trade of making 
fish, that if they do not proceed accordingly to 
forward the said trade, but either doe grow re- 
miss, or else give it quite over, that then all 
such lotts shall be forfeited againe to the towne, 
to dispose of as shall be thought fit." 

1637, on the 15th November, the name of the 
town was changed from Saugus to Lynn. The 
Court record is, "Saugust is called Lin." 

163S, on 15th March, "Lynn was granted 6 
miles into the country; and M r Hawthorne and 
Leift Davenport to view and inform how the 
land beyond lyelh, whether it be fit for another 
plantation or no." From this sprung Lynnfield. 

In 1646, Thomas Dexter was presented at the 



45 

Quarterly sessions in August, for a common 
sleeper in meetings for public worship, and fined. 
1652, Winnepurkitt, on the 1st of April, mort- 
gaged "all that tract of land commonly called 
Nahant," to Nicholas Davison of Charlestown, 
"for twenty pounds sterling dew many yeer." 

In 1660, three acres of land at Nahant, apart 
of Edward Holyoke's estate, were sold for £6. 
Two oxen were sold at the same time for £12. 

1663. 13th June, Robert Paige of Boston, 
was presented, "for settinge saille from Nahant, 
in his boate, being Load en with ivood, there by 
Profaining the Lord's daye." 

Christopher Lindsey, (whose name is preserv- 
ed in Lindsey'8 Hill,) died this year. He lived 
on Nahant. 

1678, James Mills lived on Nahant, one of 
the first inhabitants. Rice's tavern now stands 
. on the spot where he lived. He was a shep- 
herd and had seven children. Dorothy's Cove 
was so named after one of his daughters, who 
used to bathe there very frequently. 

In 1689, Sir Edmund Andros, then Governor 
of Massachusetts, assumed the ownership of Na- 
hant with the intention of bestowing it on Ed- 
ward Randolph, his Secretary, as a reward for 
his services. This caused more trouble to the 
people of the plantation. Randolph petitioned 
Andros for the gift. 

In remonstrating against this proceeding, the 
town state, that they have possessed and im- 
proved Nahant, ''well onward to sixty years;*' 
that they "have paid their monies by way of pur- 
chase" for itj and that it is the only secure place 



46 



they have ''for the grazing of some thousands 

of sheep." 

There is a ledge of rocks on the northern 

shore of Nahant, once thought to be valuable, 
as an Iron Mine. In 1791, the town voted, that 
''Mr Hubbard of Bralntree, should give three 
shillings for every ton of Rock Mine, that he 
has from Nahant, to the town, for the town's use, 
and he to have so much as ihe town sees conve- 
nient." We suspect he did not use much of it. 
In 1695, the Nahant was claimed by Mrs Mary 
Daffern and Mrs Martha Padishall, ^vidows and 
heiresses of Richard Woodey, Jr. then late 
of Boston, deceased. They were defaulted by 
the Court. Their claim was Ibunded on Dexter's 
purchase. 

In 1698, this year James Mills killed five fox- 
es on Nahant. 

The town ordered that no person should cut 
more than seven trees on Nahant, under a pen- 
alty of forty shillings for each tree exceeding 
that number. 

In 1704, 6th March, the town took measures 
to prevent the cutting down of trees, &c. at Na- 
hant. "Being informed that several persons had 
cut down several trees or bushes in Nahant, 
whereby there is likely to be no shade for the crea- 
tures, voted, that no person hereafter should cut 
any tree or bush theie, under penalty of 10s. 

In 1706, at Lynn, the lands held "in common," 
including Nahant and excepting only the train- 
ingfield, were divided among the freeholders.— 
Nahant was laid out in ranges, and in small lots 
of from 20 Poles to five acres. 



47 

In the great snow storm of 1717, a great num- 
ber of Deer came from the -woods for food, and 
some fled to Nahant, and being chased hy the 
wolves, leaped into the sea, and were drowned. 

1722. Betwen 1698 and 1722, there were kil- 
led in Lynn woods and on Nahant, 428 foxes, 
for which the town paid 2s each. 

1749. An extremely hot and dry summer. — 
Immense multitudes of grasshoppers appeared. 
They were so numerous at Nahant that the in- 
habitants walked together with bushes in their 
hands, and drove them by thousands, into the 
sea. Hay was scarce and imported from England 

Before the year 1800, there were only three 
dwelling houses at Nahant, viz. the houses of 
Jonathan Johnson, Nehemiah Breed, and Abner 
Hood. The frame of the first named house, built 
about 120 yrs. ago, is now in the house of Caleb 
Johnson. 

In 180S, Aug. 28, a hotel on the western part 
of Nahant was burnt — the only house ever burnt 
there. It was owned by Capt. Joseph Johnson, 
and was soon after rebuilt. 

In 1809, Sept. 20, a flock of sheep on Nahant 
was struck by lightning, and 18 killed. 

In 1817, the first of the new cottages was built 
by Hon. Thos. H. Perkins, near the Spouting 
Horn. 

The Sea Serpent is said first to have been 
seen this year, at Gloucester, Cape Ann. 

In 1818, a neat stone building was erected for 
a school house and library, in which divine ser- 
vice was occasionally performed. An elegant 
folio Prayer Book, once the property of Geo. 



48 

IV. of England, was presented to this library by 
the lady of Governor Gore. Several hundred 
volumes were received as donations, from Bos- 
ton and other places. 

This year a committee of five persons from 
different towns was appointed to settle the long 
existing- difficulties between the proprietors of Na- 
hant lots and the people of Lynn, to the right to 
take sea weed, sand, stone, drift wood, &c. from 
the coves and beaches of Nahant. The Commit- 
tee, however, did not decide upon the matter. 

In 1820, June, the steam boat Eagle run be- 
tween Hingham and Boston, and Boston and 
Nahant, leaving Hingham at 6 a. m.; Boston at 
9; Nahant at S 1-2 p. m. and Boston for Hing- 
ham again, at 5. 

The Hotel was built this year, by Hon. Thos. 
H. Perkins, Dr Edvv. H. Robbins, and others. 

In July, the Sea Serpent was again seen. On 
5th Aug. it was seen off Phillips's Point, about 
a quarter of a mile distant — sea calm. J. B. 
Lewis, Andrew Reynolds and Benj. King, went 
out in a boat after him, and got within 30 yards 
of him. One of them counted 23 bunches on 
his back; head black, resembling common ser- 
pents, two feet above the water, and about the 
size of a common fire bucket. Was seen again 
the next day. 

' 1832. A new and beautii'ul church was built 
this year, by funds furnished chiefly by the lib- 
eral subscriptions of the summer residents. 

1842. This year the residents at Nahant pe- 
tioned for incorporation as a separate town. 



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